This is the 3dpBurner1 an outdated version. Please check the newer 3dpBurner2.
3dpBurner1. Bill Of Materials
Last updated May/22/2015
PART NAME
|
PCS
|
NOTES
|
Working Area dependant pats. Example for 210x300 working area (mm)
|
| PRINTED PARTS |
1
| Check:http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:610934 | |
| MOTION PARTS | |||
| 623ZZ bearing |
4
| 623 dimensions=3x10x4mm | |
| GT2 pulley 20 tooth |
2
| ||
| LM8UU Linear Bearing |
6
| ||
| GT2 belt for X axis |
1
| lenght=("xTravel"*2)+250mm |
670
|
| GT2 belt for Y axis |
1
| lenght=("yTravel"*2)+330mm |
930
|
| MECHANICAL PARTS | |||
| M8 nut |
52
| Recomended get some ones more | |
| M8 washer |
52
| Recomended get some ones more | |
| M3x10 bolt |
36
| Recomended get some ones more (i use hex socket head cap but others can work) | |
| M3x20 bolt |
7
| Recomended get some ones more (i use hex socket head cap but others can work) | |
| M3 hexagon Nut |
25
| Recomended get some ones more | |
| M3 washers |
27
| Recomended get some ones more | |
| 8mm smooth rod (for bridge, bridgeSmoRod) |
2
| lenght="xTravel"+76mm |
286
|
| M8 threaded rod (for bridge, bridgeThrRod) |
2
| lenght="xTravel"-8mm |
202
|
| M8 threaded rod (for base X, baseXthrRod) |
4
| lenght="xTravel"+59mm |
269
|
| 8mm smooth rod (for base Y, baseYsmoRod) |
2
| lenght="yTravel"+108mm |
408
|
| M8 threaded rod (for base Y, baseYthrRod) |
2
| lenght="yTravel"+128mm |
428
|
| MDF wood sheet for workingTable (i use 10mm thickness) |
1
| "xTravel"+26 by "yTravel"+100 .You can use any plain wood/acrylic sheet |
236x400
|
| MDF wood sheet for baseTable (i use 10mm thickness) |
1
| "xTravel"+69 by "yTravel"+138 .You can use any plain wood/acrylic sheet |
279x438
|
| ELECTRONIC PARTS | |||
| NEMA17 stepper motor 200steps/rev (1.8º step angle) |
2
| The cheapest one (I use 34mm or 40mm length motor types without torque problems for 210x300mm working area) | |
| kw11 type limit switch |
2
| Not mandatory, only recommended. (dimensions about 7x10x20mm) | |
| 12v 40x40 fan |
1
| ||
| Arduino UNO with USB cable (or compatible board) |
1
| ||
| Arduino CNC shield GRBL compatible |
1
| *NOTE5 | |
| Power supply 12v |
1
| 2A min but recommended 3 or 5A (60W) | |
| Pololu A4988 based stepper driver with heatsink |
2
| ||
| Some wires, heat shrink, double side tape, ties… |
- -
| ||
| LASER PARTS | |||
| laser module (i use NDB7875) |
1
| *NOTE1 | |
| Laser heatsink |
1
| *NOTE2 | |
| Laser driver |
1
| *NOTE3 | |
| 4k to 10k standard resistor |
1
| *NOTE4 |
| NOTES: NOTE1: -DON'T CONNECT/POWER YOUR MODULE UNTIL YOU FULLY TUNE YOUR LASER DRIVER. Laser can be fried very easily. -Laser module= LaserDiode+12mm LaserHousing+Focusable laser lens. -Im using a "445nm 9mm Diode In Copper Module W/Leads & Three Element Glass Lens" from herehttps://sites.google.com/site/dtrlpf/home/diodes/9mm-445nm -Avoid the G2 lens, i'm getting better results with the cheapest three element glass lens (g2 lens produce more optical power but on a bigger spot). NOTE2: X carriage is designed for fit this laser heatsink, Search on Ebay, Aliexpress or your preferred online shop by a "12mm laser heatsink": |
NOTE3:
Laser driver should be TTL compatible and if you want to control the laser intensity also PWM compatible. I'm using this one (PWM and TTL) found on Ebay (back resistor is added by me, see NOTE4) .
NOTE4:
Pull down resistor is used for prevent the momentaneous laser powering on when Arduino resets and put the driver input control at high impedance state.
NOTE5:
I'm using this one (search by Arduino CNC Shield):
Cutting rods
You can buy directly a large bar of smooth rood and cut to size, Make a small chamfer at the ends.
On threaded rods need to do the chamfer and screwing and unscrewing a M8 nut several times at the ends so that the cut thread just right.
You can buy directly a large bar of smooth rood and cut to size, Make a small chamfer at the ends.
On threaded rods need to do the chamfer and screwing and unscrewing a M8 nut several times at the ends so that the cut thread just right.
Cutting tables
Cut the workingTable and baseTable as needled for your custom working area. For the standard A4 format (210x300mm working area) the measurements are:
workingTable: "xTravel"+26 by "yTravel"+100=210+26 by 300+100=236x400mm
baseTable: "xTravel"+69 by "yTravel"+138=210+69 by 300+138=279x438mm
Drilling tables
Use a 4 or 4.5mm drill Instead 3mm to perform this operation , it will allow greater tolerances.
Also is a good idea to use a 8mm WoodDrill to create a recess to hide the bolt heads on one table side for each hole . This Recess should be about 6mm deep .
 |
| Recess detail |
 |
| workingTable detail |
A=("yTravel"/2)+38.5 for 210x300 is 188.5mm
B=("xTravel"/2)-2 for 210x300 is 103mm
 |
| baseTable detail |
A=("yTravel"/2)+24 for 210x300 is 174mm
B=34.6mm
C=("xTravel"/2)+9.5 for 210x300 is 114.5mm
Finally round corners using sand paper and finish surface sanding and painting.
*The working area refered is the "real useable working area". If you build your machine for 210x300mm you will get close to 220x310mm of maximun working area :))
3D printed files
3dpBurner1 3D printed parts files can be downloaded here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:610934
Please note these are the 3dpBurner1 files, check the 3dpBurner2 page for the newer 3dpBurner2 files.
The electronics/firmware is the same on both versions.
3dpBurner1 3D printed parts files can be downloaded here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:610934
Please note these are the 3dpBurner1 files, check the 3dpBurner2 page for the newer 3dpBurner2 files.
The electronics/firmware is the same on both versions.
3dpBurner1. Assembling guide
Last update: Jan/23/2015
 |
| Main part names |
 |
| 8mm threaded and smooth rods names |
1.-Get the XmotorBridge and carefully clean the linear bearings housings using a scalpel, sand paper or similar.
2.-Redrill the three small holes with a 3mm drill.
3.-Press three M3 nuts on the provided slots.
4.-Get two LMUU8 linear bearings and insert and press one for each housing side (you can help by using force with the table or the floor).
5.-Get the XmotorMount and redrill the seven small holes using a 3mm drill.
6.-Assemble the XmotorBridge and the XmotorMount togeder using three M3X10 bolts.
7.-Redrill the two big holes af assembled part with a 8mm drill and also the two big holes from the botom side.
8.-Get the XidlerBridge and the XidlerMount and repeat the same operations as above, until you get the two part assembled togeder (you have four small holes less due no motor on this side)...
9.- Get the Xidler with the nut slot pointing to down and using the 3mm drill, redrill ONLY THE RIGHT SIDE of the two through holes, do not redrill the left side. Then redrill also the front hole and press a M3 nut into nut slot (back side).
10.-Insert two M3X20 bolts into through holes and carefully start threading and unthreading until you get the two "not redrilled holes" with a thread.
11.-Unscrew the two bolts and insert one M3 washer, two 623 bearings and another M3 washer into the idler, insert through them a M3X20 bolt and tighten with care (tweezers are very helpfully). Also thread another M3X10 bolt into the nut.
12.-Then redrill the 3mm remaining hole from the XidlerMount and assemble the idler using another M3x20 bolt (threaded on the plastic part).
13.-Get the Xcarriage, clean the bearing holes and press a pair of LM8UU.
14.-Get the YbeltHolder and redrill the two 8mm holes with a 8mm drill.
15.-Insert the two bridgeThrRod into motor side of the bridge using a pair of washers and nuts.
16.-Insert and press the two bridgeSmoRod into the motor side of the bridge holes.
17.-Get eight M8 washers and nuts, the YbeltHoder and the Xcarriage and insert into rods as shown on picture.
15.-Insert the two bridgeThrRod into motor side of the bridge using a pair of washers and nuts.
17.-Get eight M8 washers and nuts, the YbeltHoder and the Xcarriage and insert into rods as shown on picture.
18.-Now get the idler bridge part and press into smooth rods. You may need to apply force but go slowly for prevent to break other parts.
19.-Insert two washers and nuts on the threaded rods end and tighten all nuts checking these measures.
A="xTravel"-44 (for 210x300mm is 166mm)
B=(A*0.5)-10 (for 210x300mm is 73mm)
C="xTravel"+34 (for 210x300mm is 244mm)
20.-Get the Yidler and redrill the 8mm hole.
21.-Redrill the 3mm holes on similar way as done with Xidler and press a M3 nut into slot.
22.-Insert a M3X20 bolt into through hole and carefully start threading and unthreading until you get the "not redrilled hole" with a thread. Then unscrew it and insert one M3 washer, two 623 bearings and another M3 washer into the idler, insert through them the M3X20 bolt and tighten with care as done with Xidler.
23.-Get the YmotorMount and redrill the two 8mm holes and the three 3mm ones.
24.-Get the BaseMountsTypeA and baseMountsTypeB and redrill all the 8 and 3mm holes (total four 8mm holes and five 3mm holes on each).
25.-Press a M3 nut into the top holes and insert a M3x20 bolt to prevent the nut coming out. Also press two M3 nuts on each base as shown on picture (ignore the two remaining free M3 slots on each base they are not used).
26.-Get two baseXthrRod , fourteen M8 nuts and washers, one BaseMountTypeA, one baseMountTypeB and the Yidler. Assemble all as shown on picture (the free intermediate nut and washers are for future add-ons). Thighten only the base mounts side nuts and ensure they match measures.
A="xTravel"-1 (for 210x300mm is 209mm)
27.-Get the remaining two baseXthrRod , sixteen M8 nuts and washers, the remaining BaseMountTypeA and baseMountTypeB and the YmotorMount. Assemble all as shown on picture. Thighten only the base mounts side nuts and ensure they match the same previous measurements.
A="xTravel"-1 (for 210x300mm is 209mm)
28.-Get the two baseYthrRod, six M8 bolts and washers and assemble as pictured.
29.-Get the two baseYsmoRod and the previous assembled part that contain the idler and press the smooth rods into base mounts.
30.-Get the bridge and insert trough smooth rods, then get the two previous threaded rods and insert into base mounts and finally the another base part and press it into smooth rods. take care the position of bridge and the two "free nuts" of the threaded rods.
31.-Get four M8 nuts and washers and put on the end of threaded rods, thighten the bases checking measurements.
A="yTravel"+58 (for 210x300mm is 358mm)
32.-Assemble with the baseTable using eight M3x10 bolts and washers, lubricate the smooth rods and make sure all movements are smooth, if not, it is time to adjust it by using the basemounts M8 nuts. Also it is a good time to check the perfect fitting of the working table on top.
33.-Fit the GT2 pulleys to booth motors and assemble it to axis. For the Ymotor you need three M3x10 bolts and washers and for the Xmotor you need four M3x10 bolts and washers (use the provided holes for thighten the xMotor bolts). Check motor wires go out by the same pictured side.
34.-Unscrew the two M3 tensioner bolts from idlers, attach the GT2 belts and align the yMotor and yIdler. Tighten his nuts. Insert the removed M3 bolts from idlers and adjust the belts tension. Do some manual movments checking aligment. The belts must sound as bass guitar strings. If on the future you need more tension you can replace the both M3x10 idlers bolts by two M3x20 ones.
35.-If you are going to install the homming limit switches, get them and get also four M3x10 bolts and washers and the YlimitHolder part. Very carefully create a thread on the limit fixing holes using the same bolts (take care they can break easily).
Solder a pair of wires on the NO contact terminals and apply some heat shrink. Mount it on the holders and adjust them for maximize the axis travel.
36.-Get the cooling fan, FanDuct, FanMount, and five M3x10 bolts and nuts. Assemble as pictured. You can preheat the nuts for fitting into slots easily (depending on fan you may need four M3x20 bolts instead the M3x10 ones).
37.-Get the laser module and assemble into laser heatsink by using two M3x10 bolts, also get two M3 nuts and press into XcarriageNutHolders. As you can see i added a connector for easily unmount the laser from carriage (use a single position polarized one). Take laser and fan apart until you use it.
38.-You can use some adhesive foamy pieces under baseTable (or glue it) for prevent vibrations. This work very well.
19.-Insert two washers and nuts on the threaded rods end and tighten all nuts checking these measures.
A="xTravel"-44 (for 210x300mm is 166mm)
B=(A*0.5)-10 (for 210x300mm is 73mm)
C="xTravel"+34 (for 210x300mm is 244mm)
20.-Get the Yidler and redrill the 8mm hole.
21.-Redrill the 3mm holes on similar way as done with Xidler and press a M3 nut into slot.
22.-Insert a M3X20 bolt into through hole and carefully start threading and unthreading until you get the "not redrilled hole" with a thread. Then unscrew it and insert one M3 washer, two 623 bearings and another M3 washer into the idler, insert through them the M3X20 bolt and tighten with care as done with Xidler.
23.-Get the YmotorMount and redrill the two 8mm holes and the three 3mm ones.
24.-Get the BaseMountsTypeA and baseMountsTypeB and redrill all the 8 and 3mm holes (total four 8mm holes and five 3mm holes on each).
25.-Press a M3 nut into the top holes and insert a M3x20 bolt to prevent the nut coming out. Also press two M3 nuts on each base as shown on picture (ignore the two remaining free M3 slots on each base they are not used).
27.-Get the remaining two baseXthrRod , sixteen M8 nuts and washers, the remaining BaseMountTypeA and baseMountTypeB and the YmotorMount. Assemble all as shown on picture. Thighten only the base mounts side nuts and ensure they match the same previous measurements.
28.-Get the two baseYthrRod, six M8 bolts and washers and assemble as pictured.
29.-Get the two baseYsmoRod and the previous assembled part that contain the idler and press the smooth rods into base mounts.
30.-Get the bridge and insert trough smooth rods, then get the two previous threaded rods and insert into base mounts and finally the another base part and press it into smooth rods. take care the position of bridge and the two "free nuts" of the threaded rods.
31.-Get four M8 nuts and washers and put on the end of threaded rods, thighten the bases checking measurements.
A="yTravel"+58 (for 210x300mm is 358mm)
32.-Assemble with the baseTable using eight M3x10 bolts and washers, lubricate the smooth rods and make sure all movements are smooth, if not, it is time to adjust it by using the basemounts M8 nuts. Also it is a good time to check the perfect fitting of the working table on top.
33.-Fit the GT2 pulleys to booth motors and assemble it to axis. For the Ymotor you need three M3x10 bolts and washers and for the Xmotor you need four M3x10 bolts and washers (use the provided holes for thighten the xMotor bolts). Check motor wires go out by the same pictured side.
34.-Unscrew the two M3 tensioner bolts from idlers, attach the GT2 belts and align the yMotor and yIdler. Tighten his nuts. Insert the removed M3 bolts from idlers and adjust the belts tension. Do some manual movments checking aligment. The belts must sound as bass guitar strings. If on the future you need more tension you can replace the both M3x10 idlers bolts by two M3x20 ones.
35.-If you are going to install the homming limit switches, get them and get also four M3x10 bolts and washers and the YlimitHolder part. Very carefully create a thread on the limit fixing holes using the same bolts (take care they can break easily).
Solder a pair of wires on the NO contact terminals and apply some heat shrink. Mount it on the holders and adjust them for maximize the axis travel.
36.-Get the cooling fan, FanDuct, FanMount, and five M3x10 bolts and nuts. Assemble as pictured. You can preheat the nuts for fitting into slots easily (depending on fan you may need four M3x20 bolts instead the M3x10 ones).
37.-Get the laser module and assemble into laser heatsink by using two M3x10 bolts, also get two M3 nuts and press into XcarriageNutHolders. As you can see i added a connector for easily unmount the laser from carriage (use a single position polarized one). Take laser and fan apart until you use it.
38.-You can use some adhesive foamy pieces under baseTable (or glue it) for prevent vibrations. This work very well.
